Diary of a London to Paris Cycle: Day Three – Abbeville to Beauvais

I had an overwhelming feeling this morning that everything was going to be fine.

Moments after waking up I realised that we were now over halfway to Paris. The bulk of what needed to be done was over with and the next two days promised to be much shorter and much easier rides than the first two had been. At least, that’s what everyone was saying. They were certainly right about today.

After a quick breakfast I shot outside to hand my bike over to the mechanic. We’d been told that we could leave whenever we wanted to today, so I decided to get out as early as possible in case I ran into difficulties and I had to stop for a while somewhere further down the line. But first I needed to get the mechanic to take a look at my brakes, which I’d been having issues with yesterday. This took longer than I would have hoped as it seems day three is the one in which everyone starts to break down.

It was half an hour before he’d got round to realigning them and ensuring the cables weren’t loose. But then I was away and heading towards the final stop before Paris; the town of Beauvais.

This was much, much better than the first two days. I set off with a friend who’d been staying in the same hotel as me (for this article I shall call him Stuart, as that was his name). It didn’t take too long to get out of Abbeville and we were pretty soon off the main road altogether. A fairly steep climb followed the junction off the major route, though this didn’t last too long. We soon came across what would be the key theme for the day; rolling hills of wheat, stunning scenery and beautiful little villages that you would blink and miss, even on a bike.

After not too long we came to one of the most challenging hills of the ride and I must admit that it was beyond me. Stuart managed a little further up the hill before coming to the same conclusion and walked the rest of the way. We stood at the top for a while, taking in the scenery and congratulating those following us who had made it without stopping. We were soon on our way again and it wasn’t long before Stuart pulled away and I began cycling the rest of the day as I’d done the previous one; at my own pace. The key is to make it to Paris, not to tire myself out before the last day.

War graves dot northern France.

The rest of the morning was filled with an amazingly quaint, French countryside, filled with ramshackle buildings, quiet roads and hills which rolled just enough for the downward momentum to carry you up the next. Without a shadow of a doubt, I’ve never cycled through anywhere as lovely as that countryside. It makes me want to hire a car so that I can visit once more, but next time see some of these places I rushed through.

I find not being able to stop more often a huge downside of cycling such distances through such scenery. The desire to carry on and not lose momentum is too great to consider pulling the bike over to the side of the road as much as I would have liked. I’m sure it’s a completely different situation for more seasoned cyclists, but for me it was a case of simply wanting to ensure I made it through to the end.

Lunch today was as good as it has been all week. This time it was situated on a village green, overlooked by a lovely old church and a manor house. This was the first lunch where I didn’t fear I might be rained on at any moment, as the sky continued to be as bright and blue as it had been all morning. It’s just a shame that my purple legs and arms weren’t enjoying the sun quite as much as I was!

I’d love to say the afternoon was as much fun as the morning had been, but unfortunately it wasn’t to be. Whilst the glorious weather continued, the stunning scenery did not. The roads became much busier and the surroundings much more industrial the closer I got to the town of Beauvais. It wasn’t long before the tree-lined tracks turned into trunk roads and there wasn’t a single part of me that wanted to be out in it any longer than was necessary.

Fortunately, the afternoon’s ride was much shorter than the morning’s, so it wasn’t very late in the day before I approached the outskirts of Beauvais. There was a lot more traffic building up and turning left at junctions was becoming much more hazardous than it had been. A large hill and several major roads stood in my way, but I took them with the same determination that I’d taken the rest of the trip so far. Eventually I found myself at the hotel for the evening.

Our lunch stop on the third day.

The hotel was a little different to the Ibis in that it was laid out much more like an American motel, with all of the rooms leading straight outside. To my delight, I found a bath waiting for me when I finally left my bike with the organisers and collected my luggage. It was a little painful around the sunburnt areas, but it was so relaxing after three days of almost non-stop cycling.

Our main course of lasagne was a little bland, but the buffet starter was absolutely superb. Pastas, breads, cheeses, vegetables, meats, Parma ham, pate, anchovies; the list went on and on. Needless to say, I made it through two platefuls of starter before the lasagne arrived.

Once more I found I was far too tired to stay up any later than 10pm, so headed straight to bed after dinner. When I woke in the morning it was going to be the last day. Only one more day and I’d be in Paris. I’d no idea what to expect, but the nerves had come back in full force. Pretty soon I would be cycling through the mean streets of the French capital. Scary stuff!

You’ll find the second part of this little adventure here. Day Four can be found right here!

Route Map

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The ride details from Day Two:

  • Started: 24 Jun 2011 08:33:19
  • Ride Time: 5:01:43
  • Stopped Time: 2:17:27
  • Distance: 64.63 miles
  • Average Speed: 12.85 miles/h
  • Fastest Speed: 30.55 miles/h
  • Ascent: 2360 feet
  • Descent: 1392 feet

 

Diary of a London to Paris Cycle Ride: Day Two – Calais to Abbeville

Pain. But not as much pain as I’d envisaged. It turned out that I was more adept at cycling than I believed I was. Of course I was always going to be a little bit tired after cycling for almost 100 miles yesterday, but this morning I found myself more than capable of both waking and standing up. I perhaps hadn’t got as much sleep as I’d have probably liked, given we didn’t get to the hotel until pretty late last night. And we had to be out of the hotel and away early today due to their being a time-trial cycling event taking place in the area later in the morning.

One of many tiny villages I cycled through on Day Two

So I set off from the Ibis hotel in Calais to the starting point at the other hotel the group had been staying at. At least, that’s what I thought I’d been doing. I set out and followed a set of arrows away from the hotel and out into the countryside. It was after two and a half miles that I thought something was wrong, and after having not seen an arrow for quite some time, I set off back to the hotel. It was a good job as it turned out that I’d been following the wrong set. So after a five mile trip I finally made it to the start. Not the best way to begin a 75 mile cycle.

I’d been reliably informed that northern France was quite flat. I can assure you, dear reader, that northern France is not flat at all. The route from Calais seemed to keep rising for at least 20 miles, and it wasn’t until we reached the first water stop of the day that it began to flatten out. But even then it wasn’t the landscape I had been expecting. Relative flatness with the odd extreme hill thrown in for good measure. A very tiring morning all-in-all, made more tiring by the long cycle from yesterday and my sprint from earlier on to try and make sure I got to the start before everyone set off.

It was around this time that I decided to change tactics. I had made an attempt throughout yesterday and today to stick with a group of people. I figured this was best in case I got into trouble with the bike. Unfortunately, due to our varying speeds (their’s being much faster than my own) I was lagging behind and constantly tiring myself out whilst trying to catch up. If I continued at that pace I would never make the rest of the day, let alone try and get to Paris over the next two. So I slowed it down from around an average of 13mph to 11mph.

And what a difference it made! I soon started to enjoy the ride, rather than seeing it as something to struggle against. My decision to meet up with people at water stops rather than trying to keep up with them all day worked an absolute treat. I even managed to stop off in a cafe with them when I recognised their bikes lined up outside.

The cafe we stopped at on Day Two

Lunch was in a forest, just over the halfway point for the day. There is nothing finer than someone stood with an array of free food after you’ve been struggling up hills all morning. The sky was threatening rain, but it never really reared its ugly head. Instead the sun came out for the afternoon as I continued on my way to Abbeville. The roads became much smaller at this point, turning from wide A-style roads to more rural tracks, though all perfectly well maintained.

Which is something else I had been reliably informed about France; that the roads are perfect. This is also something of a misnomer. Whilst they are perfectly well maintained for cars (probably due to the lack of traffic you’ll see on most French rural routes to wear them down), the vast majority that I cycled on had a concrete top layer and not Tarmac. This makes them extremely bumpy and quite painful on the arms and bottom. It gets so bad in places that you have to worry about the condition your bike is going to be in at the end of it.

Lunch on Day Two

The afternoon was bathed in an extreme of heat. Not great for me as I’d forgotten to put any sun cream on. I could feel my arms and legs start to grow pinker and pinker, through to a rather dashing shade of purple which was agony to touch.

Eventually the day was over once more and I found myself located in another Ibis hotel; this time in the town of Abbeville. I hadn’t quite made it in one piece though. Around 100 metres from the finish the footstrap on my right-hand peddle came off. One of the screws had seemingly fallen off, with the other one left hanging. It meant that I couldn’t cycle with it up to the hotel, so had to work the very short distance up the hill. I was also starting to have problems with the brakes. The back ones were beginning to make a scraping sound as though the pads had worn down too much. Definitely something for the mechanic to take a look at.

The evening brought with it one of the worst meals I’ve ever eaten. The buffet starter was a selection of five very poor salad foods, followed by a main of extremely bland chicken and chips. They obviously fell for the old stereotype that the English only eat bland foods and lumbered us with what they could scrape out of the bottom of the freezer.

I was still far too knackered to think about heading out to the hotel bar for a drink, so headed back to my room after the meal for a sleep and to await the third day of cycling, from Abbeville to Beauvais.

You’ll find the first part of this little adventure here. Day Three can be found here!

Route Map

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The ride details from Day Two:

  • Started: 23 Jun 2011 05:34:04
  • Ride Time: 7:27:30
  • Stopped Time: 2:26:29
  • Distance: 81.91 miles
  • Average Speed: 10.98 miles/h
  • Fastest Speed: 33.14 miles/h
  • Ascent: 2360 feet
  • Descent: 2240 feet