Diary of a London to Paris Cycle Ride: Day Two – Calais to Abbeville

Pain. But not as much pain as I’d envisaged. It turned out that I was more adept at cycling than I believed I was. Of course I was always going to be a little bit tired after cycling for almost 100 miles yesterday, but this morning I found myself more than capable of both waking and standing up. I perhaps hadn’t got as much sleep as I’d have probably liked, given we didn’t get to the hotel until pretty late last night. And we had to be out of the hotel and away early today due to their being a time-trial cycling event taking place in the area later in the morning.

One of many tiny villages I cycled through on Day Two

So I set off from the Ibis hotel in Calais to the starting point at the other hotel the group had been staying at. At least, that’s what I thought I’d been doing. I set out and followed a set of arrows away from the hotel and out into the countryside. It was after two and a half miles that I thought something was wrong, and after having not seen an arrow for quite some time, I set off back to the hotel. It was a good job as it turned out that I’d been following the wrong set. So after a five mile trip I finally made it to the start. Not the best way to begin a 75 mile cycle.

I’d been reliably informed that northern France was quite flat. I can assure you, dear reader, that northern France is not flat at all. The route from Calais seemed to keep rising for at least 20 miles, and it wasn’t until we reached the first water stop of the day that it began to flatten out. But even then it wasn’t the landscape I had been expecting. Relative flatness with the odd extreme hill thrown in for good measure. A very tiring morning all-in-all, made more tiring by the long cycle from yesterday and my sprint from earlier on to try and make sure I got to the start before everyone set off.

It was around this time that I decided to change tactics. I had made an attempt throughout yesterday and today to stick with a group of people. I figured this was best in case I got into trouble with the bike. Unfortunately, due to our varying speeds (their’s being much faster than my own) I was lagging behind and constantly tiring myself out whilst trying to catch up. If I continued at that pace I would never make the rest of the day, let alone try and get to Paris over the next two. So I slowed it down from around an average of 13mph to 11mph.

And what a difference it made! I soon started to enjoy the ride, rather than seeing it as something to struggle against. My decision to meet up with people at water stops rather than trying to keep up with them all day worked an absolute treat. I even managed to stop off in a cafe with them when I recognised their bikes lined up outside.

The cafe we stopped at on Day Two

Lunch was in a forest, just over the halfway point for the day. There is nothing finer than someone stood with an array of free food after you’ve been struggling up hills all morning. The sky was threatening rain, but it never really reared its ugly head. Instead the sun came out for the afternoon as I continued on my way to Abbeville. The roads became much smaller at this point, turning from wide A-style roads to more rural tracks, though all perfectly well maintained.

Which is something else I had been reliably informed about France; that the roads are perfect. This is also something of a misnomer. Whilst they are perfectly well maintained for cars (probably due to the lack of traffic you’ll see on most French rural routes to wear them down), the vast majority that I cycled on had a concrete top layer and not Tarmac. This makes them extremely bumpy and quite painful on the arms and bottom. It gets so bad in places that you have to worry about the condition your bike is going to be in at the end of it.

Lunch on Day Two

The afternoon was bathed in an extreme of heat. Not great for me as I’d forgotten to put any sun cream on. I could feel my arms and legs start to grow pinker and pinker, through to a rather dashing shade of purple which was agony to touch.

Eventually the day was over once more and I found myself located in another Ibis hotel; this time in the town of Abbeville. I hadn’t quite made it in one piece though. Around 100 metres from the finish the footstrap on my right-hand peddle came off. One of the screws had seemingly fallen off, with the other one left hanging. It meant that I couldn’t cycle with it up to the hotel, so had to work the very short distance up the hill. I was also starting to have problems with the brakes. The back ones were beginning to make a scraping sound as though the pads had worn down too much. Definitely something for the mechanic to take a look at.

The evening brought with it one of the worst meals I’ve ever eaten. The buffet starter was a selection of five very poor salad foods, followed by a main of extremely bland chicken and chips. They obviously fell for the old stereotype that the English only eat bland foods and lumbered us with what they could scrape out of the bottom of the freezer.

I was still far too knackered to think about heading out to the hotel bar for a drink, so headed back to my room after the meal for a sleep and to await the third day of cycling, from Abbeville to Beauvais.

You’ll find the first part of this little adventure here. Day Three can be found here!

Route Map

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The ride details from Day Two:

  • Started: 23 Jun 2011 05:34:04
  • Ride Time: 7:27:30
  • Stopped Time: 2:26:29
  • Distance: 81.91 miles
  • Average Speed: 10.98 miles/h
  • Fastest Speed: 33.14 miles/h
  • Ascent: 2360 feet
  • Descent: 2240 feet

 

Diary of a London to Paris Cycle Ride: Day One – London to Calais

Nerves. Massive, massive nerves. I’ve rarely felt so apprehensive about anything in my life. The prospect of starting a 300-mile journey by bicycle is not one which should really be taken lightly. Unfortunately, with my lack of training I feared that’s exactly what I had done. An event which was forever something which would be happening in the future suddenly snuck up and stood towering over me like the horrendously-designed Crystal Palace Lodge we stayed in last night.

The dingy hotel we stayed in the night before the trip began

The place was clearly designed by people who didn’t care, for people whom they simply didn’t care about. The whole place seems built specifically to be a fire hazard, with one central spiralling staircase, lifts which hold only three people at a time and an exterior clad in wood. It’s not the nicest place to stay. It’s also not the nicest place to eat breakfast, as the powdered eggs attested to. The hotel’s one saving grace was the pool table, which allowed us a few moments to clear our minds the evening before of what was to come.

It was all over soon enough though, as this morning we headed over to the steps still standing from The Great Exhibition of 1851. I wondered whether I would still be standing at the end of this little adventure.

Our bags were taken from us and loaded into the back of a van, ready to be taken straight over to Calais. This was it. There was time for a quick briefing before we set off as a group of 137 cyclists towards Dover.

Riding in a large group for the first time is an experience in itself. The very first stretch of the journey took us downhill, making everyone extra cautious about their speed and about bumping into people around them. It wasn’t long however before the group started to split, with the front runners heading off quicker than the rest and others getting stuck at traffic lights and succumbing to early bike failures. We had barely left the park at Crystal Palace before the first person’s chain came off. I’m very glad to say that it wasn’t me.

Here's me, nervous as hell, before we set off

Cycling through the streets of London didn’t seem to take too long and we were soon out into the countryside and in all of the dangers that brings. Narrow roads, speeding cars and some of the steepest hills you wouldn’t want to walk up, let alone cycle. One such hill occurred at around ten miles in. We had all been warned about it at the briefing, but I don’t think anyone was really prepared for encountering a hill with a 25% incline. Needless to say, I, and the vast majority of people, clambered (or fell) off their bikes at some point going up that hill. Even walking the rest of it was a struggle. Most stopped at the top for a well-deserved rest.

Then it was off again. The key to a journey like this is to split it into sections. I decided on the lengths of training sessions I had done. My regular Sunday morning trip would take in between 25 and 30 miles, so that’s how I split the day in my head. These roughly two-hour chunks helped to focus the mind on what I was doing, and I was able to ignore the fact that I still had another 80 miles to travel that day!

Pretty soon the weather decided that it didn’t like us and promptly let the heavens open. I had unfortunately left my waterproof jacket in my suitcase and wouldn’t be able to get hold of it until the evening. I was also only wearing a pair of regular trainers and a normal t-shirt, which meant that every single bit of me got soaked during the morning.

Lunch in the pouring rain on our first day of cycling

Eventually, following a mid-morning water stop, we reached lunch at a village sports ground. It was still throwing it down, so after grabbing our meal of pasta, potatoes and bread, most of us squeezed into the ladies and gents’ changing rooms. Not the most pleasant place to eat given how filthy it was and how there wasn’t a door between us and the toilets, but we were all too shattered and soaking wet to care.

By this point we had travelled just over halfway to Dover and still had plenty of cycling to do. We were in luck though and it wasn’t too long before the skies cleared and we were treated to a bit of sun to dry us out.

One of the problems with cycling such large distances is that you don’t get to see as much of the scenery as you would expect to. Much of the day is spent concentrating hard on the road ahead, looking for traffic and pot-holes, trying to the stay out of trouble. The last thing you want to do on the first day is run into problems. The only real issue we had all day though was that someone had stolen one of the arrows which guided us through our trip. We ended up taking a slight detour as a group of around 20, but due to some impressive map-reading skills we soon ended up back on track.

Much of the rest of the journey was a blur, with tiredness taking over frequently and an overwhelming desire to get to Dover. Then, ten miles from the end, I got a puncture on the back tyre. Whilst slowing down to take a look I ended up toppling into a bush. Fortunately neither the bike nor myself were damaged, so I pulled over to the side of the road to replace the inner tube.

At this point I was joined by a small group of people infinitely more qualified to replace an inner tube than myself, so I was away again in around 20 minutes for the final leg of the day.

We made it to Dover!

The sense of sheer jubilation at reaching the outskirts of Dover was overwhelming, and I let out a shout for joy the first time I heard a seagull. It was only a few minutes more before I pulled up to where everyone else was gathering. I left my bike with one of the organisers and headed into the local pub to meet up with the cyclists who had already made it. I was rather pleased to note that I wasn’t the last to come in, and it gave me enough time to have a drink and make a couple of phone calls before we headed over to France.

Once everyone had turned up we got back on our bikes for the short trip down the road to the ferry port where, much to our dismay, we had a very long wait out in the cold for the stragglers to turn up. Even then we had more waiting to do on the quayside as the ferry was stuck out at sea for thirty minutes in rough waters. By this point we were all tired, sweaty and must have stunk to high heaven. We were all gathered in one of the holding points normally reserved for cars, shivering in the cold wind.

Our first view of Calais from the ferry

Eventually we were told we could cycle onto the ferry before the cars and lorries. So it was up the ramp, bikes into storage and ourselves into the restaurant for some celebratory fish & chips. Whether it was because I was tired, or because they were genuinely that good, but I don’t remember enjoying a meal more than I did on that boat.

Whilst it was nice to be on the ferry, it wasn’t time to become complacent. It was true that we had accomplished our longest single distance, but we weren’t done for the day. Once in Calais we cycled off the boat and headed in convoy to our hotels. A long, slow journey kept at a crawl so that everyone could keep up with the truck.

Finally, after cycling for 96.37 miles, we got to our hotel for the evening at nearly 10pm. There was time for nothing but a shower to scrub the day off before collapsing into bed.

You’ll find the second part of this little adventure here.

Route Map

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The ride details from Day One:

  • Started: 22 Jun 2011 07:06:59
  • Ride Time: 7:49:04
  • Stopped Time: 6:52:10
  • Distance: 96.37 miles
  • Average Speed: 12.33 miles/h
  • Fastest Speed: 33.26 miles/h
  • Ascent: 3198 feet
  • Descent: 3473 feet